The Pembrokeshire Coast Path in Wales

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The best book for the walk is the National Trail Guide titled "Pembrokeshire Coast Path" by Brian John, ISBN 1-85410-459-4. This contains detailed route descriptions, historical and geological information, and strip maps.

Atop Cairn Llidi at Highwinds Burial Chamber on St. David's Head

MThe 179-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path follows the scenic shoreline in southwestern Wales, starting in the north at St. Dogmaels and continuing on through or near Fishgard, St. David's, Pembroke and Tenby, ending at Amroth.

MMany sections follow the cliffs, where a great variety of birds nest, and where seals can often be seen sunning themselves on rocks or diving for fish in the water below. Several high points provide magnificent vistas in all directions. Other sections veer inland out of sight of the sea. There are ample accommodations along the route, including hotels, bed and breakfasts and hostels. It's easy to plan a continuous walk with a series of overnight stays, or to base at one town after another and do the walk in stages.

MI chose to do the latter after a failed attempt at walking some of the Cambrian Way in June of 1998. That misadventure began in North Wales at Beddgelert, where I encountered severe weather in attempting to walk south over Cnicht to Maentwrog. I felt the high winds and rainy conditions made a solo walk on this section of the Cambrian Way too dangerous and turned back just short of the Cnicht summit. I returned to Beddgelert to wait the weather out, but gave up after two days and traveled down to Dinas Mawddwy, where I resumed walking on the Cambrian Way for two days to Commins Coch. But bad weather persisted, so I took various buses and trains to Fishguard, where I walked the section of the coastal path from Fishgard to Strumble Head, then I spent several days in St. David's, where I walked the distance around St. David's head and down to Newgale beach in two sections.

MSunny weather greeted me on these three days of walking. Though the path follows the coastline, don't be lulled into thinking there's no elevation, as it dips from the cliffs to the shoreline frequently, providing a series of short, steep descents and climbs. Another word of caution: The path can be treacherous during wet weather and ventures very close to the cliffs in many areas.

Day-by-Day Itinerary

MFishguard is made up of three towns: Lower Fishguard, Upper Fishguard and Goodwick. From Fishguard Harbor, it's possible to take a ferry over to Ireland.

MFrom Upper Fishguard, the path follows along several hundred feet above the sea around Saddle Point and then down to the harbor before heading steeply uphill through Goodwick, where the path quickly departs from the urban setting, cutting off Pen Anglas peninsula before returning to the cliffside for much of the remaining journey out to Strumblehead. If one were continuing on, a logical destination for the night would be Trefin, which is 17 miles from Goodwick. I walked out to Strumblehead and back instead.
Day One photo gallery

MGood local bus service took me the next day to St. David's where I based myself for two more days. St. David's is the site of St. David's Cathedral and a good place to do some shopping and enjoy lively pubs and restaurants. St. David was one of the key figures of the Age of Saints when Christianity spread from Ireland after the departure of the Romans during the Dark Ages. The present cathedral is the fourth one on this site and was built beginning in 1180. Adjacent to the cathedral are St. Mary's College and the remains of Bishop's Palace, built by Bishop Gower in 1328-47.

MThe circular walk begins in St. David's and includes a short but steep side trip to Cairn Llidi and the Highwinds Burial Chambers. This high vantage point afforts a magnificent view of the coastline in both directions. The walk continues out to the cliffs and around St. David's Head to Whitesands Bay. I then continued down the coastline to St. Justinian's and walked the roadway back to St. David's. The circular walk starting from St. David's is about 4.5 miles, and it's another 5 miles to St. Justinian's and back to St. David's.
Day Two photo gallery

MSt. Justinian's is easily reached by road from St. David's. There's a lifeboat station there and the anchorage is used by boats that take passengers to Ramsey Island across the straights where tidal currents reach 7 knots at times and where a series of jagged rocks called "The Bitches" have been the bane of mariners.

MThe path hugs the coastline with a continuous view of Ramsey Island for quite some time and around to Porth Clais, a harbor for the city of St. David's used by pilgrims during the Age of Saints, and by small trading vessels in the centuries that followed. Farther on is St. Non's Bay, named for St. David's mother. The patron saint was born here in A.D. 462 and a ruined chapel marks the spot.

MSolva Harbor soon comes into view. In the 1300s, this was a small port the later developed into a main trading center. Today, it's a tourist spot and harbor for fishing and pleasure craft and a perfect place to sit outside in the good weather and have a beer at a pub. It's also easy to catch a local bus from this point back to St. David's. I climbed up out of the port and continued on another 4 miles to the pebble-strewn beach at Newgale, where I waited for a local bus and reluctantly ended my walk on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
Day three photo gallery

Last updated 11/21/2005